Great Torrington Town Council

The medieval castle was on the south side of the town near the edge of the high, steep precipice overlooking the River Torridge, now called Castle Hill.  Castle Street leads to the old castle site where there is now a bowling green, car park and the castle mound which is all that remains of the old fortification.

The original castle was built in the 12th century and the site is first mentioned in 1139 when it was attacked in the civil war, waged in the reign of King Stephen (1135-54).  Henry de Tracy, a supporter of King Stephen, took the castle from its lord, William de Toriton, but William’s family later regained control and kept the castle until 1227.  It seems the first castle was built without royal licence and in 1228 the Sheriff of Devon ordered it to be pulled down and the ditches around it to be filled up level with the ground.  A second castle was built, with permission, by Richard de Merton in 1338 on the same site.

The castle of 1139 had a tower which was possibly situated on the earthwork to the west of the bowling green.  There is a later reference to a bailey and the site may have been of the well-known motte (mound) and bailey (courtyard) pattern.  The name of the Barley Grove car park could well be a corruption of ‘bailey’.  Despite the extensive destruction of the site in 1228, this mainly affected its defences for the chambers, hall, kitchen, grange and cowshed were mentioned in 1343 and the chapel still survived in the 16th century having been used as a school house since 1485.  This was eventually demolished in 1780.  Another school house was built on the same site which, in later years, became the Blue Coat School, then the Eric Palmer Community Centre which closed in 2010.  The building is now a health and fitness centre.

The east end of the castle site, said to be the location of the castle keep, is now occupied by the bowling green.  The castellated walls, together with the arrow slits seen here were, however, constructed by Lord Rolle in around 1846.  When the old bowling pavilion was pulled down in 1987 to make way for a new clubhouse, an archaeological study was made and the masonry foundations of part of a domestic building were discovered, the tail of a rampart of clay and stone was located and considerable quantities of medieval pottery were recovered.

Torrington is situated on the top of a hill overlooking the River Torridge, after which it is named.  The name of the river comes from the old word ‘toric’ meaning ‘noisy’ and ‘violent, rough stream’ as opposed to its companion river, the Taw which means ‘smooth, placid’.  The sources of the two rivers are about 26 miles apart and they follow very different routes before meeting in a broad estuary.

The River Torridge rises on the border of north Devon and north Cornwall, just east of the A39, only some 15 miles from where it meets the sea.  Brimford Bridge is the first of the Torridge’s many bridges and the river is rather hidden as it meanders through the countryside until it reaches Woodford Bridge.  Below the village of Meeth the Torridge is joined by the River Okement bringing waters from Dartmoor.

The river approaches Torrington from the direction of Beaford and flows under New Bridge near Orford Mill at the junction on the A386 where the B3124 turns off towards Exeter.  This bridge is a majestic structure built very high above the water because of the provision of a dry arch to take the canal (in use 1827-1871) which was on a higher level than the river.  The next bridge to cross the river is the one at Taddiport probably built in the 13th century and originally known as Town Bridge.  The river then flows under the old railway bridge (now part of the Tarka Trail) before passing under Rolle Bridge opened in 1928 which carries the main road from Torrington to Bideford.  Just beyond this bridge is the old Rothern Bridge which, with Taddiport Bridge, was one of the town’s original bridges and dates from at least the 14th century.

The river continues on to Weare Giffard, looping through woodland and meadows and crossed three times by the Tarka Trail.  Weare Giffard marks the tidal limit of the River Torridge and, being low-lying, the village has suffered flooding on many occasions.

Bideford Long Bridge dates from the latter part of the 15th century and has been widened at various times and in a variety of ways to cope with the demands of modern traffic.  Before the building of the present stone bridge, there were at least three different wooden structures which were in use from the late 13th century.  Further downstream is the new Bideford bridge, a soaring curve high up above the river which was opened in 1987.  The Taw and the Torridge meet just beyond Appledore and Instow and flow together out through Barnstaple or Bideford Bay to the Atlantic.

Great Torrington is a friendly, welcoming town set in the heart of unspoilt, rolling countryside.  It enjoys a superb hilltop position overlooking the River Torridge which must have been valued for its strategic importance when the castle stood there during the Middle Ages and is now appreciated for its magnificent views.  The town is surrounded on three sides by 365 acres of common land given to the people of Torrington in the late 12th century and since 1889 administered by a Committee of Conservators.  There is a variety of terrain on the commons and 20 miles of footpaths which are enjoyed by both townspeople and visitors and, to the north, a nine hole golf course.

The  Battle of Torrington  in 1646 was an important event during the English Civil War.The defeat of the Royalist occupiers of the town by General Sir Thomas Fairfax and his Parliamentary army spelled the end of Royalist hopes in the West Country. The parish church was partially blown up during the battle when gunpowder stored in the tower was accidentally ignited.  This event is commemorated each year by a procession and fireworks organised by the Torrington Cavaliers.

Fairs have been held in Great Torrington since the 13th century.  On the first Thursday in May is the ever-popular May Fair which sees the crowning of the May Queen plus maypole and floral dancing in the town square.  On the following Saturday is the Carnival procession through the town.  At other times of the year there is entertainment by the town’s Silver Band and, as Christmas approaches, a candlelit ‘Big Sing‘.

Every five years or so the Torrington Cavaliers build an impressive structure on the commons (e.g. half-size replica of Nelson’s Victory, a castle, ‘Trumpton’) which is set alight with accompanying music and fireworks.  Crowds of people come to watch and thousands of pounds are raised for charity.

The Torridge valley is in the heart of Tarka Country.  This wonderful landscape has remained practically unchanged since Henry Williamson found inspiration here to write his classic novel, ‘Tarka the Otter’, in the 1920s.  The Tarka Trail which follows the route of the old railway line, parts of which were once the Torrington Canal, is a popular walking and cycling track.  Down at the old railway station – now the Puffing Billy restaurant – stands a small collection of old rolling stock of interest to enthusiasts.

Great Torrington is known as the home of Dartington Crystal which opened in 1967 and continues to be Torrington’s largest employer.  The remains of other important past industries (glove factory, dairy) can still be seen.

The Rolle family were lords of the manor for some 350 years from Henry VIII’s time until the early 20th century and made many benefactions to the town.

The town square and the roads leading into it are a conservation area.  There are many buildings, some with interesting associations, that are worthy of notice e.g. Black Horse, Globe, Plough arts centre, town hall, pannier market, 28 South Street, Palmer House (where the artist Joshua Reynolds used to stay).  At 14 South Street and the adjoining Market House is the free Torrington museum.  

Dramatic history, buildings of interest, friendly locals and beautiful setting all make a visit to Great Torrington worthwhile.